Walden Farm & Ranch will be closed on Monday, May 28th for Memorial Day to honor those who have died in military service. Thank you to all of our military men and women for your wonderful service to our country.

Grooming your pets doesn’t mean that they have to be made-up and untouchable; it simply means that you’re taking good care of their health by keeping a watchful eye on their hygiene. Pets, like humans, are more likely to remain healthy when they are clean and well groomed. Contrary to popular belief, dogs and cats are not wild animals; they require regular grooming attention to keep them healthy in their domestic environments. One of the major benefits of a regular grooming regimen is that you will become familiar with your pet’s body. This allows you to quickly recognize problems with his health, so you can bring them to your veterinarian’s attention sooner. Remember that you should seek help from your veterinarian if you think that your pet will be difficult to groom alone.

Basic brushing

Brushing your furred friend removes dead hair and skin, spreads out natural oils in their coat, and helps keep them from developing an odor. It is one of the simplest things you can do for your dog or cat, but it is also one of the most necessary. A variety of brushes and combs are available-make sure that you use one appropriate for your pet’s coat. How often you brush them depends on whether they have long or short hair. For animals with short hair, a weekly brushing may be enough to keep their coat in good order. Critters with longer locks require more frequent sessions with the brush. And some breeds require daily attention to keep their tresses in good condition.

Cats are well known for their exemplary grooming habits, but even they need a weekly brushing. In fact, brushing your kitty is great for his health because it helps prevent hairballs, keeping his digestive track healthy. During shedding seasons, increase your brushing frequency as needed to remove the excess dead hair.

Exceptional ears

Ears are a prime place for infection-keeping your little buddy’s ears clean is a great way to prevent illness. Regularly pick up his ear flaps and examine the inside. Make sure that they are a healthy pink color. If everything looks good, wipe the outer flap of the ear with a cotton ball, being careful not to touch any part of the ear that you cannot easily see. If you notice any symptoms (sensitivity to touch; brown, black, or yellow discharge; foul odor; shaking or continuously tilting head; or circling in one direction) take your pet to the veterinarian to have his ears examined. Another option for cleaning the ears is to use a liquid ear cleanser. But never use an ear cleanser on your pet if you have noticed what could be a problem. The cleansers could cause severe damage if your pet has an inner ear infection or if something has damaged his ear drum.

Tip-top teeth

Routine dental care is essential to your pet’s overall good health. Approximately 80 percent of all three-year-old cats and dogs show some sign of periodontal disease, characterized by a build-up of plaque and tarter on their teeth above and below the gum line. This disease can lead to gum infection and tooth loss. Your pet’s poor dental hygiene is much more serious than his embarrassingly bad breath-infected gums and dirty teeth have been linked to kidney and secondary heart disease in pets. For information on cleaning your pet’s teeth, consult your veterinarian. In addition to your home care, your veterinarian should perform yearly dental check-ups on your pal; she will let you know when you need to have your pet’s teeth professionally cleaned.

Fantastic Feet

Many of our four-legged friends prefer not to have their paws handled, making nail trimming especially traumatic for them. Like it or not, it still must be done. Try touching his ears or paws when you praise him, and before you know it, your little buddy will love to be handled in those sensitive spots. Indoor cats should have their nails trimmed occasionally whether they use a scratching post or not. Your dog’s claws should not ever extend so far that his nails come in contact with the ground when he’s standing normally on a flat surface. Nails this long place unneeded stress on your pooch’s paws, which in turn can lead to foot problems. Be careful not to trim your critter’s nails too far down; you could cut into the quick (the part of their nail which contains the blood). If you should cut their nails too close, apply pressure or use clotting powder to stop the bleeding. Make sure you use nail clippers designed especially for animals. Cats, for example, have brittle nails that can shatter easily, so it is best to use tools that are designed for them. Here’s an excellent strategy for those who hate the clippers: only cut a nail or two in one sitting. Who said you have to do it all at once? Spread it out over a few days and you’ll lower the stress level immensely.

Extraordinary eyes

Examine your pet’s baby blues often to make sure that everything looks good. You want to ensure that any abnormal conditions are noticed as soon as possible so that your veterinarian can begin treatment immediately. Be extremely careful with your pet’s eyes during all parts of the grooming process. You might consider applying protection, like sterile ophthalmic ointment or drops, to your little buddy’s eyes before bathing. Dogs and cats have very sensitive eyes, and soap-even “tearless” soap-can damage their corneas. Also, trim away any hair that is falling into your animal’s eyes so that it doesn’t inflict damage. Make sure to use blunt scissors (children’s safety scissors are great) when trimming the hair close to their eyes to minimize the chance of injury. If tear staining is a problem, you might consider looking at some of the products available commercially to help you care for your pet, or ask your veterinarian or groomer for advice.

Serious suds

The ever-popular “B” word-few animals feel that bath time is something to celebrate. In fact, the majority of our pets probably dread a bath more than anything else. Nevertheless, sometimes it is a necessary evil. On the bright side, the more often you brush your friend, the less often you will have to subject him to the dreaded bath-time experience. Here are some basics to cover before putting your pet in the water. First, always brush your critter thoroughly before bathing him. Any mats and tangles that your pet may have will only get worse during the bathing process, so take care of those problems in the beginning. Second, protect your pal’s ears by placing cotton inside them. This will avoid getting soap in his ears which could be painful to him. Make sure you have everything you need where you can reach it. After your pal is wet and unhappy, it will be much more difficult to leave him to retrieve the shampoo. And finally, close off all escape routes. This will help you avoid chasing a wet pet around the couch. You may consider putting a towel or screen on the bottom of the tub or sink-if your furred friend has a secured footing he will not be so upset.

Now you’re ready to let the fun begin! Always use shampoo designed especially for your animal. Human shampoo is not made for dogs and cats; it can be harmful to their skin, drying it out and destroying their natural oils. Lather him thoroughly, leaving his face until the end. After you have washed him well, make sure that you rinse him just as well, as leaving soap in his fur can irritate his skin. Towel your little buddy off and rub him down. If he’ll accept it, you can blow dry him. And then finish him off with a good brushing.

Though it might sometimes be a struggle to keep your furry pal in clean condition, it’s well worth it. Not only are you improving his health, you’re bonding with him in the process. He’ll appreciate the attention he’s getting, and you’ll appreciate the lack of fur stuck in your ice cube trays. Good grooming habits are a must for any happy household!

Source: American Animal Hospital Association

The thing is, nobody’s filled pets in on all of these benefits of exercise. Without someone to lead the way, they’re not going to run laps or do leg lifts in their spare time. So as a wonderful pet parent, part of your job is ensuring your animal family members get safe, enjoyable exercise on a regular basis–whether they’re cats, dogs, turtles, or ferrets! All pets need some physical activity to live a happy, healthy life.

Different pets need different amounts of exercise, so you’ll want to talk to your veterinarian before starting your pet’s workout program. With your veterinarian’s approval, you can embark on an exercise program that won’t seem like work at all–to your pet, it’s play.

 Dogs on the run

Dogs can be great fun to exercise, because they can get you out and moving yourself. You don’t want to hit the ground running with your pooch, though. Just as with any animal–or person–you’ll want a doctor’s okay before you start your dog’s fitness routine. “Begin with a visit to the veterinarian to discuss your plans and ensure your dog has a clean bill of health,” says Dr. Jay Geasling, member and past president of the American Animal Hospital Association. “After your veterinarian gives you the go-ahead, start your dog on suitable exercise for beginners.”

Just like people who aren’t used to exercise, dogs should start off slow. Moderately paced walking and swimming are a good way to start–they let canine athletes build their cardiovascular and muscle strength without putting undue stress on their joints. A daily ten- to 15-minute walking or swimming session is a good start; you can build to an hour a day if Rover seems up to it. If, after a few months, he’s doing well and can handle long, fast walks without fatigue, he can graduate to jogging with you. Once he’s adapted to the exercise, you and your dog can run and walk to your heart’s content, if you take a few precautions:

Keep a close eye on your dog: watch for any unusual signs of fatigue or trouble breathing. If your pup wants to stop, let him. Dogs that overdo it can suffer strained tendons or ligaments or other orthopedic problems.

Don’t expect your fuzzy buddy to be a weekend warrior, even if you only get exercise on the weekends yourself. After a long week without exercise, your dog may be ready to get out and burn off energy. But because of their enthusiasm, many of the popular breeds, such as Labrador and golden retrievers, will overdo it.

Safety first–keep Rover on a leash when you run. Even the best-trained dogs can run into the path of a car or a territorial animal. And if you have to run when it’s dark out, put reflectors on your dog’s collar as well as on your clothes.

Concrete and asphalt are tough on the paws, especially on hot days. Try to run on dirt paths or grass as much as possible. Gravel, cinders, and road salt can also irritate paws.

Take it easy in extreme weather. If it’s freezing cold or hot and steamy out, either keep your run short or play a little indoor fetch instead.

The more active your dog is, the more water he’ll need. Make sure he has plenty of fresh water before and after your run. If you’re going for a long run, take some water along for him.

If your dog is getting bored with running or walking, take heart: there are other ways to get him the exercise he needs. A 15-minute game of fetch makes for a good workout. Supervised play with other dogs is a good option too. Tug-of-war is not a good game because it can damage his teeth and may increase aggressive behavior. If you have the time and your dog has the inclination, you could even try running him through some agility obstacle courses, which incorporate a range of activities. If you’re interested, your veterinarian may know of a dog agility organization in your area.

Getting the cat off the couch

Cats can make laziness into an art form: snoozing in the afternoon sun, stretching a little before they plop down on your lap for the night. But as immobile as they seem, they still need to get up and moving on a regular basis. Cats are a bit different than dogs, however–they’re designed for short, frequent periods of intense activity, rather than longer, slower-paced exercise sessions.

There are some wonderful toys you can buy to get your cat active, including kitty trees that will let her climb to the ceiling and mechanical animals she can chase around the room. There’s no reason to reach into your wallet for toys your cat may or may not like, however, when there is endless entertainment around the house. There are a few main ways you can entice your kitty into activity:

Things she can bat. Anything light that moves easily across the floor can give your cat a chance to practice hitting and chasing. Balled up pantyhose and paper work well; for some reason the rings that come off of milk jug caps also seem to be irresistible. Just make sure that she’s not batting anything she could chew up or swallow.

Things she can chase. The end of a moving string should bring out the predator in even the most sedentary cat. Again, just make sure she doesn’t swallow the string.

Things she can explore. Empty boxes and paper bags may get your cat to climb in, out, and on top.

Things she can scratch. Scratching stretches and tones the muscles in your cat’s shoulders and back. A scratching post–or even a piece of cardboard or carpet–can keep her active without shredding your sofa.

Whatever game you play with your cat, don’t use your hand or fingers as “bait” or as the object of teasing. This teaches him that it is all right to scratch and bite your hands–a lesson you will want your cat to unlearn in the future.

The key is to find out which kind of toy is the most tempting to your cat and to use it consistently. You may have to try a lot of different activities to before you find your kitty’s favorite. Some cats can even be trained to walk outside on a leash.

Exotic exercise

Yes, your pets in cages need exercise as well. Some small exotic pets, such as mice, geckos, turtles, or small birds, can get enough exercise simply moving around their cage. Larger animals, however, may lose muscle tone or become obese if they don’t get enough activity. There are a few ways to make sure your exotic gets moving:

In the cage. Some pocket pets and birds can get plenty of activity with toys inside their cage. The well-known hamster wheel is an excellent way for hamsters, gerbils, and rats to burn off extra energy. Also, most pet stores carry sections of plastic pipe that you can attach to your pocket pet’s cage for extra running room. Climbing ladders and hanging mirrors and bells can help keep birds active and moving around their cage.

Letting them out. If it can be done safely and you can watch him closely, letting your exotic pet out of the cage is an excellent way for him to stretch and move his muscles. If your pet is small enough, you can put him in a “hamster ball” and watch him roam. Some larger animals like rabbits, iguanas, and birds can safely explore your living room if you watch them carefully; be particularly watchful for rabbits, guinea pigs, and the like chewing on electrical cords.

Getting fresh air. Building a small, securely covered outside pen may be a good idea if you have an exotic pet. Most larger exotic animals–including rabbits, guinea pigs, hedgehogs, snakes, iguanas, and turtles–will enjoy some time in the sun and the grass, provided they are protected from predators. You’ll just need to make sure they’re always supervised and that your lawn hasn’t been treated with any chemicals.

Swimming. Believe it or not, swimming can be great exercise for reptiles. Many snakes and lizards are thrilled to slither or paddle around in a few inches of water. Because they carry salmonella, reptiles shouldn’t swim in a bathtub or swimming pool used by people. Instead, you can buy a children’s wading pool and keep it just for your pets’ use.

Making them fly. If you have an overweight bird that refuses to fly, you’ll need to coax him to walk and to move his wings. One trick to get him to flap is to hold him on your arm and move that arm up and down; he’ll move his wings to keep his balance.

Going for a stroll. With training, some rabbits and iguanas can actually learn to enjoy walking on a leash with a harness.

Whatever their species, animals’ need for exercise is just as vital to their health as their need for shelter, good food, and clean water. For help in designing an exercise plan for your pet, contact your veterinarian.

“Too often we overlook the need for dental care for our pets,” says Dr. Ed Eisner, an AAHA member who specializes in veterinary dentistry.” Untreated teeth can cause serious problems in the pet’s overall health.”

Periodontal disease is the number one dental problem in dogs and cats, and cats often develop defects below the gumline which may be hard to detect. As in humans, abscessed teeth or periodontal disease can affect other parts of the body. In dogs and cats, they can cause heart and kidney disease.

A regular veterinary dental checkup can help prevent serious problems and keep your pet healthy. Pet teeth cleaning includes use of a short-lasting anesthetic that allows for gumline probes, removal of tartar and tooth polishing. A good way to remember to schedule a dental exam is to combine it with your pet’s annual booster vaccinations.

Equally important to annual dental exams is home dental care, such as brushing your pet’s teeth at least three times per week. AAHA recommends a technique for both younger and older animals, although it’s easier to start brushing when the pet is young.

To introduce your pet to brushing, wrap gauze or a washcloth around your finger and use it like a toothbrush on the pet’s teeth. Wipe all the teeth, front and back, with strokes from the gumline to the tip of the tooth. Do this for one to two weeks until your pet is familiar with having its gums and teeth rubbed.
Gradually progress to a soft toothbrush and plain water. After a week of using a soft toothbrush, add a small amount of special dog or cat toothpaste. Never use human toothpaste as it may irritate the pet’s stomach.
Begin by brushing the front teeth and then the upper and lower teeth in the back. The bristles should be held at a 45-degree angle to the tooth surface and be moved in an oval motion. Scrub in the crevice where the gums meet the teeth, as this is where odor and infection begin.

Home care can be improved by feeding your pet an unmoistened dry pet food and offering hard biscuits after each meal. Both dry food and hard biscuits produce abrasion to help keep plaque to a minimum on the crown of each tooth.

“We encourage people to regularly examine their pet’s teeth for signs of periodontal disease, such as brownish colored teeth; swollen, red, or bleeding gums; persistent bad breath; loose teeth or loss of teeth; pus between the gums and teeth; broken teeth; and any unusual growth in the mouth,” says Dr. Eisner.” Reluctance to eat, play with chew toys, or drink cold water are warning signs of periodontal or gum disease.”

Never leave your pet in the car. Though it may seem cool outside, the sun can raise the temperature inside your car to 120 degrees Fahrenheit in a matter of minutes, even with the windows rolled down. If you need to run some errands, leave the furry ones at home.

As you’re outside enjoying the warm weather, keep your pet leashed. It will keep her from getting lost, fighting other animals, and eating and drinking things that could make her sick. This tip isn’t just for dogs–even cats can learn to walk on a leash if you train them.

Water, water everywhere. Whether you’re indoors or out, both you and your pet need access to lots of fresh water during the summer, so check her water bowl several times a day to be sure it’s full. If you and your furry friend venture forth for the afternoon, bring plenty of water for both of you.

Pets need sunscreen too. Though all that fur helps protect her, your pet can get sunburned, particularly if she has light skin and hair. Sunburn in animals can cause problems similar to those it can cause in people, including pain, peeling, and skin cancer. So keep your pet out of the sun between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m., and when you do go out, rub a bit of sunblock on unprotected areas like the tips of her ears, the skin around her lips, and the tip of her nose.

Say no to tangles. Keeping your pet well groomed will help her hair do what it was designed to do: protect her from the sun and insulate her from the heat. If she has extremely thick hair or a lot of mats and tangles, her fur may trap too much heat, so you may want to clip her.

Watch out for antifreeze. Hot weather may tempt your pet to drink from puddles in the street, which can contain antifreeze and other chemicals. Antifreeze has a sweet taste that animals like, but it’s extremely toxic. When you’re walking your pet, make sure she doesn’t sneak a drink from the street.

Be cautious on humid days. Humidity interferes with animals’ ability to rid themselves of excess body heat. When we overheat we sweat, and when the sweat dries it takes excess heat with it. Our four-legged friends only perspire around their paws, which is not enough to cool the body. To rid themselves of excess heat, animals pant. Air moves through the nasal passages, which picks up excess heat from the body. As it is expelled through the mouth, the extra heat leaves along with it. Although this is a very efficient way to control body heat, it is severely limited in areas of high humidity or when the animal is in close quarters.

Make sure your pet doesn’t overexert herself. Though exercise is an important part of keeping your dog or cat at a healthy weight, which helps her body stay cool, overdoing it can cause her to overheat. Keep the walks to a gentle pace and make sure she has plenty of water. If she’s panting a lot or seems exhausted, it’s time to stop.

Take it easy on pets that can’t deal with the heat. Elderly, very young, and ill animals have a hard time regulating their body temperature, so make sure they stay cool and out of the sun on steamy summer days. Dogs with snub noses, such as Pekingese, pugs, and bulldogs, have a hard time staying cool because they can’t pant efficiently, so they also need to stay out of the heat. Overweight dogs are also more prone to overheating, because their extra layers of fat act as insulation, which traps heat in their bodies and restricts their breathing capabilities.

Bring them inside. Animals shouldn’t be left outside unsupervised on long, hot days, even in the shade. Shade can move throughout the afternoon, and pets can become ill quickly if they overheat, so keep them inside as much as possible. If you must leave your pet in the backyard, keep a close eye on her and bring her in when you can.

Keep an eye out for heatstroke. Heatstroke is a medical emergency. If you suspect your pet has heatstroke, you must act quickly and calmly. Have someone call a veterinarian immediately. In the meantime, lower the animal’s body temperature by applying towels soaked in cool water to the hairless areas of the body. Often the pet will respond after only a few minutes of cooling, only to falter again with his temperature soaring back up or falling to well below what is normal. With this in mind, remember that it is imperative to get the animal to a veterinarian immediately. Once your pet is in the veterinarian’s care, treatment may include further cooling techniques, intravenous fluid therapy to counter shock, or medication to prevent or reverse brain damage.

Even with emergency treatment, heatstroke can be fatal. The best cure is prevention, and Fido and Fluffy are relying on you to keep them out of harm’s way. Summer does not have to be fraught with peril–with ample precaution, both you and your furry friends can enjoy those long, hot dog-days of summer.

Take care to buckle up your pets when in the car.

Traveling with a pet usually involves more than putting the animal in a car and driving off, especially if you will be driving long distances or be away for a long time. The American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) offers these tips to help you prepare for a car trip with your pet and make it go a little smoother.

If your pet is not accustomed to the car, take it for a few short rides before the trip. This can help keep your pet from becoming nervous or agitated, and may lessen the effects of motion sickness. If, after a number of practice trips, your pet continues to cry excessively or becomes sick, consult your veterinarian.

Buckling up is an important safety precaution for your pet. Many states now require that pets be restrained while in a moving vehicle, and restraints have several advantages. They help protect pets in case of a collision, and they keep pets from running loose and distracting the driver. They also keep pets from escaping the car through an open window or door.

Cats and smaller dogs are often most comfortable in pet carriers, which can be purchased in various sizes at most pet stores. Carriers give many animals a sense of security and familiar surroundings, and can be secured to the car seat with a seat belt or a specially designed carrier restraint. There are also pet restraints available that can be used without carriers, including harnesses, seat belt attachments, pet car seats, vehicle barriers, and truck/pickup restraint systems.

No matter what kind of restraint you use, be sure that it does not permit your pet’s head to extend outside the car window. If pets ride with their heads outside the car, particles of dirt can penetrate the eyes, ears, and nose, causing injury or infections. Excessive amounts of cold air taken into lungs can also cause illness.

While packing for your trip, remember to throw in a few of your pet’s favorite toys, food and water bowls, a leash, and food. You should also carry a first aid kit for your pet, and know basic pet first aid. If your pet is on medication, be sure to have plenty for the trip — and then some. Dr. Walt Ingwersen, AAHA veterinarian in Whitby, Ontario, points out that veterinarians cannot write a prescription without a prior doctor/patient relationship. This means that in order to get any drugs, your pet will need to be examined first by a new doctor. This may be inconvenient if you need medication right away. Also, if your pet is on a special therapeutic diet, bring along an extra supply in case you can’t find the food in a strange area.

Stick to your regular feeding routine while traveling, and give your pet its main meal at the end of the day or when you’ve reached your destination. It will be more convenient to feed dry food if your pet is used to it. Dispose of unused canned food unless it can be refrigerated. Take along a plastic jug of cold water to avoid possible stomach upset the first day, as new areas can have minerals or bacteria in their water supply that pets need time to adjust to. Give your pet small portions of both food and water and plan to stop every two hours for exercise.

Remember that your veterinarian is a good source of information about what your pet will need when traveling. Consider having your pet examined before you leave as well, to check for any developing problems. If an emergency occurs while you are on the road, you can call the American Animal Hospital Association at 800/883-6301 or visit our hospital locator for the names and phone numbers of AAHA veterinarians near you. Have your current veterinarian’s phone number handy in case of an emergency. Also, be sure to travel with a copy of your pet’s medical records, especially if the animal has a difficult medical history.

Some pets travel better while tranquilized. Tranquilizers can lessen agitation and motion sickness in pets traveling by car. Discuss this with your veterinarian. Your veterinarian may suggest giving your pet a tranquilizer three to four weeks before your trip to check the dosage and adjust it if necessary.

Find hotels, motels, and campsites that accept animals and book them ahead of time.

Learn more about the area you will be visiting. Your veterinarian can tell you if there are any diseases like heartworm or Lyme disease and vaccinations or medications your pet may require. A health examination following your trip should be considered to determine if any internal parasites (roundworms, hookworms, heartworms) or external parasites (ticks, fleas) were picked up in contaminated exercise or wooded areas. Also, be aware of any unique laws. Some places have restrictions on exotic animals (ferrets are not allowed in some cities), and there are restrictive breed laws in others, such as no pit bulls allowed. Your pet could be affected by these laws, so call ahead to the city or travel information bureau for more information.

To avoid losing your pet during a trip, make sure your pet is wearing an I.D. tag. To be doubly protected, consider having your pet tattooed or having a microchip implanted. “The more methods of identification, the better chance that the owner will be found,” says Dr. Ingwersen. Microchip databases are specific to the United States and Canada, so register your pet in both countries if you will be driving from one to the other. Dr. Ingwersen also suggests owners register the name and phone number of a relative who can identify the pet in case the owner can’t be reached while traveling.

It’s important to carry health and rabies vaccine certificates, particularly if you will be crossing the border into Canada, the US, or Mexico. All three countries allow dogs and cats to enter if they meet stringent entry requirements. Depending on the country, exotic pets may be allowed to enter, though they may need further documentation. Call the Agriculture Department or embassy of the country or state to which you are traveling for information on the vaccinations, documentation, fees, or quarantine that may be required to bring your pet into the country.

Most importantly, try to plan ahead for unusual or emergency situations. What you don’t need in the middle of a trip is one more thing to worry about. “People get into a panic if they don’t have enough medication for their pet, no appropriate documentation for travel to other countries, or money to pay for border fees,” says Dr. Ingwersen. “Be prepared by bringing a copy of your pet’s medical records, proper documentation and medication and knowing the laws going into the new city or country.” Preparation is the most effective way to help ensure a smooth, enjoyable trip for you and your pet.

Remember that your veterinarian is a good source of information. Before you move, ask your veterinarian to recommend another doctor in your new area.

Check out the new facility before an emergency strikes. Make sure it meets your expectations in the areas of cleanliness, caring and well-trained staff, reasonable fees, and convenient hours.

Have your current veterinarian’s phone number handy in case of an emergency or if your new veterinarian needs more information about your pet.

Travel with a copy of your pet’s medical records, especially if the animal has a difficult medical history.

“If there is any medical problem, the pet may need to be examined before travel,” says Dr. Walt Ingwersen, AAHA veterinarian in Whitby, Ontario. “Some countries require a full exam and health certificate, and the United States and Canada require a valid rabies certificate. Discuss this with your veterinarian.”

If your pet is on medication, be sure to have plenty for the trip –and then some. Dr. Ingwersen points out that veterinarians cannot write a prescription without a prior doctor/patient relationship. This means that in order to get any drugs, your pet will need to be examined first by its new doctor. This may be inconvenient if you need medication right away. You may ask your current veterinarian for a prescription before you move.

If your pet is on a special therapeutic diet, purchase an extra supply in case you can’t find the food right away in your new area.

Carry a first aid kit for your pet. While first aid is no substitute for veterinary care, knowing basic first aid could save your pet’s life.

If your move involves driving, book ahead hotels that accept animals. “Vacationing with Your Pet” by Eileen Barish is a directory of pet-friendly lodging throughout the United States and Canada. Order a copy by calling (800)496-2665.

Thinking of using a boarding kennel? Get recommendations from your veterinarian and make sure your pet’s vaccines are up-to-date. You also can call the American Boarding Kennels Association at 719/591-1113 for the names of kennels in your area.

If traveling by plane, call the airline in advance to check out regulations and services and to make reservations. Some airlines will allow pets in the cabin, but you will need to purchase a special airline crate that fits under the seat in front of you.

Some pets travel better while tranquilized. Discuss this with your veterinarian. Your veterinarian may suggest giving your pet a tranquilizer three to four weeks before your trip to check the dosage and adjust it if necessary.

Learn more about your new area. Your veterinarian can tell you if there are any diseases like heartworm or Lyme disease and vaccinations or medications your pet may require. Also, be aware of any unique laws. Some places have restrictions on exotic animals (ferrets are not allowed in some cities), and there are restrictive breed laws in others, such as no pit bulls allowed. Your pet could be affected by these laws, so call ahead to the city or travel information bureau for more information.

If you’ll be traveling between countries, it’s important to carry a rabies vaccine certificate. Expect your pet to be quarantined in certain locations. Hawaii has a 120-day quarantine period, and the United Kingdom has a six-month quarantine period. Call the Agriculture Department or embassy of the country or state to where you are traveling for information on special documents, quarantine, and additional costs to bring the animal into the country.

“Canada has an automatic veterinary inspection for $35 at the border for pets entering from countries other than the United States,” says Dr. Ingwersen. “New Zealand has mandatory microchip implanting and a $10 scan fee at the border.” Make sure you have the right kind of currency and enough of it to pay any fees or your pet will be boarded.

To avoid losing your pet during a move, make sure your pet is wearing an I.D. tag. To be doubly protected, consider having your pet tattooed or having a microchip implanted. “The more methods of identification, the better chance that the owner will be found,” says Dr. Ingwersen. Microchip databases are specific to the United States and Canada, so register your pet in both if moving between these countries. Dr. Ingwersen also suggests owners register the name and phone number of a relative who can identify the pet in case the owner can’t be reached while traveling.

What you don’t need in the middle of a move is one more thing to worry about. “People get into a panic if they don’t have enough medication for their pet, no appropriate documentation for travel to other countries, or money to pay for border fees,” says Dr. Ingwersen. “Be prepared by bringing a copy of your pet’s medical records, proper documentation and medication and knowing the laws going into the new city or country.”

Pets are just like people who sometimes become anxious when they don’t travel frequently. This leads some owners and veterinarians to question whether administering sedatives or tranquilizers to dogs or cats prior to flight is a good idea. According to national and international air transportation organizations, as well as the American Humane Association and the American Veterinary Medical Association, in most cases the answer is “no”!

“An animal’s natural ability to balance and maintain equilibrium is altered under sedation,” says Dr. Patricia Olson, DVM, PhD, former director of veterinary affairs and studies for the American Humane Association. “When the kennel is moved, a sedated animal may not be able to brace and prevent injury.”

Whether flying in the cabin or in cargo, animals are exposed to increased altitude pressure of approximately 8,000 feet. Increased altitude, according to Dr. Olson, can create respiratory and cardiovascular problems for dogs and cats who are sedated or tranquilized.

“Brachycephalic dogs and cats [those with short, wide heads] are especially affected,” says Dr. Olson. “Although thousands of pets are transported uneventfully by air, airline officials believe that when deaths occur they often result from the use of sedation.”

Source: The American Animal Hospital Association.

Pets are just like people who sometimes become anxious when they don’t travel frequently. This leads some owners and veterinarians to question whether administering sedatives or tranquilizers to dogs or cats prior to flight is a good idea. According to national and international air transportation organizations, as well as the American Humane Association and the American Veterinary Medical Association, in most cases the answer is “no”!

“An animal’s natural ability to balance and maintain equilibrium is altered under sedation,” says Dr. Patricia Olson, DVM, PhD, former director of veterinary affairs and studies for the American Humane Association. “When the kennel is moved, a sedated animal may not be able to brace and prevent injury.”

Whether flying in the cabin or in cargo, animals are exposed to increased altitude pressure of approximately 8,000 feet. Increased altitude, according to Dr. Olson, can create respiratory and cardiovascular problems for dogs and cats who are sedated or tranquilized.

“Brachycephalic dogs and cats [those with short, wide heads] are especially affected,” says Dr. Olson. “Although thousands of pets are transported uneventfully by air, airline officials believe that when deaths occur they often result from the use of sedation.”

Source: The American Animal Hospital Association.